Visiting Athens is often a launching point when exploring Greece, whether it serves as your base for further travels (such as to the Greek islands) or marks the beginning of a journey into ancient history across the peninsula. Making the most of your time in Athens is highly recommended, especially if you like to minimize time in crowds.
We tend to visit Europe during what is known as "shoulder season," either just before or after prime season. This trip, we were there in mid-April, close enough to prime season that plenty of tourists were out and about among the Athenians, but crowds were manageable if not avoidable. On our visit, we planned days in Athens at the beginning of our two weeks in Greece, and an additional day and a half at the end.
We stayed at The Hermes Hotel which is conveniently located in the Plaka area, not far from the Syntagma Metro Station and a short walk to many sites. We did not use any public transport while in Athens, finding everything we wanted to see quite manageable by foot.
This article may contain affiliate / compensated links. For full information, please see our disclosure here.
Changing of the Guard
Our modus operandi is to push through our first day on a European trip, so we
wandered by foot from our hotel to the nearby Hellenic Parliament building --a few blocks away from our hotel--to see the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Some simply watch briefly, only seeing two guards standing very still, without movement. To leave at this point is to miss the full experience. The biggest spectacle happens on Sunday at 11 AM, but each day, once an hour (at the top of the hour), two guards are replaced by two others, with a highly unique walking routine you will never forget and definitely must video.. Look and listen for its various elements: the slap and drag of the shoes (replete with balls on the toes), the foot nod, the slow extended walk. It's a dignified ceremony, but I also see where Monty Python might have gotten the idea for the Minister of Silly Walks.
National Gardens of Athens
From there, it was a short walk to and through the National Gardens of Athens. While (in my opinion) it doesn't quite match gardens like those in Cordoba or Granada in Andalucia, it was tranquil, well shaded, and has six ponds. In fairness to the Gardens, this was our arrival day, so lingering to see the courtyard at the Zappeion or wander the ponds was not on the agenda. We were also there before some of the summer blooms, and hoofing it to our next destination. Temple of Olympian Zeus/Gate of Hadrian
We delayed going to the bigger archeological sites until we had a good night's sleep, so our foray into the rich history of Greece began by visiting the nearby Temple of Zeus/Gate of Hadrian, otherwise known as the Archeological Site of the Olympieion. It was our first of many surprises of how modern Athens intermingles with its past, with ruins popping up in the middle of housing, offices, and well, everywhere. I took this photo from the top of the Acropolis, looking down on the Temple of Zeus and Gate of Hadrian, surrounded by modern Athens. Notably, there is little shade, so dress accordingly. Also notably, there was preservation work on the main temple there, which is shown covered in scaffolding. There is a fee to get in, which is easily done at the front gate.
Hadrian refers to the Roman Emperor Hadrian. While a conqueror, he also was a fan of Hellenistic culture. In fact, he was the one who made sure the Temple of Zeus was completed and went on to build a public forum that included a library. We would later walk around the perimeter of that site while perusing neighborhoods.
The Best Way(s) to Take a Break in Athens
Two words: Freddo Cappucino. This Greek coffee--shaken espresso, cold foam, and ice--is available everywhere and a great way to beat the heat but get some caffeine to keep going. I always asked for mine "less sweet" and it was perfect, especially on this first day on the ground and trying to stay awake.
Freddo Cappucino Exploring the neighborhoods. Whether you are looking for a place to eat, want to see a new vibe, or explore nightlife, you'll want to explore Athen's neighborhoods. We did some of that each day. I'll be linking a post here in a few days on the neighborhoods we visited and where we ate. Meanwhile, here are a few teasers:
Agora of Athens
After a quick lunch at one of many small cafes nearby (and that important jolt of caffeine), we wandered to the Agora of Athens. I think visiting here BEFORE going to the Acropolis gave us some perspective of how all of the Athens ruins fit together and allowed us to better imagine how the people of the day used them. In fact, standing on the main road in the Agora, I could envision both it lined with shops and the processions honoring Athena that would go up this road to the Acropolis.
Most of the ruins are remnants that need some explanation, but nonetheless highly interesting. I particularly like the statues that remain from the Odeon of Agrippa, which was a center of music and singing.
There are two main buildings on the site--the restored Stoa of Attalos, now an archeological museum, and the Temple of Hephaestus. The mid afternoon sun coming through the Temple of Hephaestus was stunning. While most of the Agora site is flat, there is a climb up to this Temple but it is not overwhelming and certainly worth the view.
We made our way around the site, referring to a self-guided tour provided in Rick Steves' book, Greece: Athens and the Peloponnese. His tour helped interpret what we were seeing, and had us searching like a treasure map for the remains of key buildings and infrastructure.
Note: as of this writing, they require timed tickets to get in, but during our visit, we had no trouble buying them at the gate.
Is the site accessible? Yes. We came in the main gate at Adrianou 24 which is wheelchair accessible but a companion is recommended. Most areas are flat, with gravel, and can be navigated by those with mobility issues. We easily hoofed it up the stone stairs to the Temple of Hephaestus (easy, but it you have balance problems, a walking stick is advised) but apparently there is another entrance at the hilltop (off Apostolou Pavlou Street) that can be opened for those needing wheelchair access but advance communication is required. More info is available on their ticketing site.
The Acropolis
Many people mistakenly believe that the terms Acropolis and Parthenon are interchangeable. The Acropolis, the limestone plateau that towers over Athens, contains many ruins with the Parthenon only one of several you can still see and easily identify. The Acropolis of Athens served many roles over the centuries, as an administrative center, worship, a fortress, and more. To read more about its history, this link is a fast but detailed read.
One mistake we almost made was not getting tickets online soon enough to enter the Acropolis. We were lucky it was not prime season and were able to get tickets for a 5:00 PM entrance by buying it late in the afternoon the previous day. (Note: the Acropolis closes at sunset, which of course is early in the winter). There were plenty of tickets left, but the prime tickets that avoid the heat--early morning and after 5 PM were few and far between.
Entrances
There are two entrances to the Acropolis. The main entrance is at the top of the hill, which we used. During prime season, the line to get in can be quite long (even with your pre-paid ticket) but we found it moved along quite quickly.
To get to that entrance, we meandered past the ruins of the Roman Forum and Hadrian's Library until we reached neighborhood streets on the slope. It was a close fit in some places past the outdoor cafes on either side, but once we came out on Theorias Street, we knew we were almost there.
From Theorias Street, we saw ruins on the North slope including an ancient supreme court building. At times, we had a spectacular view down, including a peek of the Athens Agora and in specific, the Temple of Hephaestus. It felt like coming full circle in our history of Athens.
The other entrance is the "side" entrance, accessed off of Dionysiou Areopagitou street which is a notable promenade in a higher-end neighborhood, not far from the Acropolis Museum. This is the way we came down after our visit to the top.
TIP-- The side entrance is much less used and will have a shorter line (if any) to get in. It walks you more directly past the Dionysious Theater (purportedly the oldest theater in the world) and the Odeon of Herodis Atticus (a restored theater that is still used today), and a few other ruins.
How difficult is the walk up? We probably took the more difficult way (in theory) because of the steep walk of steps up past the cafes. Yet, we could have used those cafes for a break before finishing the climb. We didn't take that break, yet I made it just fine. The walk up from the side entrance is a constant uphill slope (duh!), yet it is a bit more gradual and is mostly a flat ramp type of path.
Be Prepared for Reality
Our 5 PM entrance allowed us to avoid most of the heat but a water bottle and hat are still advised. However, it can be extremely windy atop the Acropolis, so any hat should be able to be secured. This also explains my lack of selfies from the top. My hair (too short to secure in a ponytail) was often blowing straight up!
TIP-- Be aware that in extreme heat (mostly in the summer), it is possible that the Acropolis will be closed to visitors. Watch your weather.
The next photo shows the reality of going up the main steps into the upper plateau of the Acropolis, through the Propylaia ruins. Everyone is stopping for a quick photo back at the sunset or to get that selfie with columns behind them.
Still, I was able to get a few Instagram-worthy photos without people. It just takes careful planning and the correct angle. Below is one of my favorite photos. Rather than being of the Parthenon, it's of the Erectheion Temple which currently contains replicas of the Caryatids/Karyatids which held the roof up on the south porch of the building. We were fortunate to be there during "the golden hour" of photography.
The Peripatos Walk
One interesting part of the Acropolis we missed was the Peripatos Walk, an ancient pathway that encircles the Acropolis a bit below the summit and includes ancient caves used for worship and other ruins. As part of the official site, it's inside the entrance gate and is part of your paid ticket. It gives you a better view of The Odeon, but you can see it without doing the walk. Our understanding is that it could take as little as 1 hour but up to 2-3 hours if you stop to really mull over what you are seeing. If you are in a hurry, you can do part of the walk, then descend to the Theatre of Dionysus which will take you to the South slope.
TIP-- if you are interested in doing The Peripatos Walk, google the directions for The Beulé Gate, its starting point.
Is the Acropolis accessible for those with mobility problems? Overall, yes. There is an elevator 300 meters from the exit, available for people with mobility impairments as well as accessible bathrooms at the top. Most paths are flat or compacted enough for a wheelchair and fine for those who must step carefully. There are few places where a wheelchair might have trouble due to rocks protruding from the ground, but overall it doesn't prevent you from seeing all the sites. See this link for more info on the elevator. This website has very detailed info if you are concerned with accessibility around the main historic sites of Athens, included a look at inclines and what pathways might be slippery for wheelchair access.
Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis Museum entrance is at Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, just across from the side entrance to the Acropolis and at the start of the pedestrian walkway. Opened in 2009, this modern museum is built over ruins that you begin to see from the outside of the building as you queue in line to enter.
We only purchased our tickets online, on our phones, as we arrived. The season you chose to visit will determine if you need to buy tickets further ahead of time. Ticket link is here.
The museum has many highlights I could list here. My particular favorites included:
The fact that you could see the actual Acropolis out the windows during your visit, which made the artifacts and their history seem more meaningful.
The floor that is built to be a modern mirror of the Parthenon, giving visitors a chance to see the size of its four sides, columns (albeit metal), a rectangular shape, and--most importantly--the sculptures and artifacts in the place where they belong.
The Archaic Acropolis Gallery, where you can view items that retain their original (surprisingly brilliant) colors. Note: there is no photography allowed in this section of the building to protect the colors, a requirement posted on a sign I missed (oops) but quickly obeyed when I discovered my mistake. Trust me, the colors are amazing.
We had visited The Acropolis Museum only months after we were in London to see the British Museum, which led me to write this post about how one of the friezes from the Parthenon displayed at The Acropolis Museum is missing pieces here and there that are now owned by The British Museum, part of the controversial Elgin Marbles.
Rounding Out The Athens Essentials
There is so much more to explore in the city beyond ancient Greek ruins. Even with limited time, you can work in the some of the best of Greek culture, history, and cuisine in between all the sites listed above. Here are some of the best ways to do just that:
Dropping in to some of the small and/or large historic Greek Orthodox churches you'll be walking by.
Visiting some of the neighborhoods, each of which have their own flavor and vibe. (A new post on our experiences is coming soon). Psyrri and Monastriaki were two of our favorites.
Sampling excellent cuisine at even more excellent prices. We found that food in Athens was surprisingly inexpensive as compared to many big European cities.
One of the things we have done is a food tour on our first day in a city. It helps us acquaint ourselves with the local sites and cuisine plus, if we take a tour the day of arrival, it helps us push through to acclimate to the time change with no worry about finding a place to eat. The company we usually choose for these tours is Devour because their tours are led by highly knowledgeable professionals (who are also fun) and are focused on visiting family-owned, unique, and sometimes hidden places, and often intertwine history.
Their two Athens tours have different vibes. The day-time tour takes you through thirteen tastings across nine establishments (enough for a full meal) and usually includes a family-owned cheese shop, a distillery, bakery, and the Athens Central Market. The other is an evening tour that includes dinner, drinks, and dessert across four local establishments in a specific neighborhood. Check out their Athens tours here.
No matter whether you are speeding off to a Greek island or taking a road tour of the Peloponnese peninsula after visiting the city, we hope this short guide will help you make the most of the time you have in Athens.
Comments